Courtesy of Guest Chef Bill Fore
A lot of people think Italian red wines are too strong for them. This
is probably because a lot of us are accustomed to soft fruity red wines like
California Merlot, and more full-bodied, oak aged white wines like California
Chardonnay. To some degree, it's a matter of experience, and our
preferences are based on our individual threshold for strong flavors.
Another misconception is that salad is inherently a bad match for wines,
destroying the fruity character. Most vinaigrette recipes are too heavy on
the vinegar or citrus to be good wine partners, and some bitter salad greens
like excarole or arugula can throw the palate off-center, too.
The three most important food seasonings affecting the flavor of wine
are sweet, sour, and salt. A good balance of these allows the palate
to perceive the flavor of wine pretty much the way it would taste without
food. Too heavy on sweetness, and wine will taste strong by
comparison, while intense salty and sour flavors in the food make wine
taste milder.
Try this salad with a good Italian red like the ones recommended
here. (See the salad recipe
and the wine recommendations
below.) It's a great late-summer alfresco lunch. The dressing
is mild, and the beans add a creamy richness to contrast the crunch of the
lettuce and sweet fennel. If you'd like the wine to seem milder and
fruitier, give the salad an extra spritz of lemon juice and a pinch of
salt. If you like the strong flavors in the wine, you might increase
the sugar in the dressing, or substitute a sweetener with more flavor,
like honey. Either way, it's great to be able to enjoy a salad with
some crusty bread and a glass of wine.
White
Bean and Fennel Salad
| 1 |
19 ounce can cannelini beans, chick peas, or other
favorite legume |
| 1 |
bulb fresh fennel |
| 4 |
scallions |
| 1 |
head radicchio |
| 1/2 |
bunch fresh curly parsley |
|
|
| 1/3 cup |
light red wine vinegar (or 50/50 vinegar and wine) |
| 1/3 cup |
light vegetable oil (such as canola) |
| 1/3 cup |
good quality Italian olive oil |
| 1 tsp |
sugar |
| 1/2 tsp |
salt |
|
fresh ground black pepper |
| 1 |
clove fresh garlic, chopped fine |
| 1 |
lemon |
Prepare the following ingredients and place all in a large salad bowl:
- Drain the beans in a strainer and rinse thoroughly in cold running
water. Drain very well
- Pare any discolored or damaged parts of the fennel. Remove any
fine leafy parts and reserve them for garnish. Slice the fennel
into very thin, randomly shaped pieces (a food processor with a thin
cutting blade or mandolin work well for this, but it can also be done
easily with a good sharp knife).
- Pare the root of the radicchio and remove any damaged leaves.
Cut it into randomly shaped slivers of 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide,
discarding the hard core.
- Trim and wash the scallions, and cut off the root. Cut
crosswise into very thin slices.
- Wash, dry and chop the parsley fine.
Make the dressing by dissolving the sugar and salt into the vinegar,
then combining with the remaining ingredients. It can be whisked
together or shaken in a jar. Pour some of the dressing on the salad
and toss lightly to coat. Taste it for salt and pepper and adjust if
necessary. Add a little more dressing if needed, too.
Just before serving, squeeze a little lemon juice over the top of the
salad and garnish with the fern-like fennel leaves and very fine lemon
zest.
[Advice: You can start with dried beans if you are ambitious and
get very toothsome results, but the canned ones are quick and work just
fine. Check out several different canned brands to find beans that
are whole and firm-- some can be mushy. Dress the salad ingredients
quickly after cutting to prevent oxidation. The salad can be eaten
right away, but a couple of hours in the 'fridge helps the flavors meld
nicely. Retoss it before serving. enjoy it with crusty bread
and olive oil, cold meats, or smoked fish.]
Wine
Recommendations
- 2003 Avignonesi, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
- A rich, round red with lots of jammy berry and strawberry flavor.
Full bodied.
-
- 2003 Pio Cesare, Barbera d'Alba
- A bright ruby red color. Intense fruit flavors.
Bright with light tannins.